Anything Strata

Here's a formula for making a savory bread pudding with whatever you have on hand.

Five years ago, I wrote a book proposal on strata, that family of savory and sweet bread puddings that are frugal, adaptable and universally loved.

It never sold. I'm happy that I didn't have to recipe test 70 strata recipes--that would be a lot of bready meals. (Sometimes rejection is a good thing).

The experience did give me the foundation for producing strata at the drop of a hat. And I discovered that I prefer savory bread puddings to sweet ones. (I call them all strata because they're built in layers.)

What I love about dinner strata, apart from its economy, is its versatility. For seasonal cooks that means you can make strata any time of the year using whatever vegetable is in abundance. For last Sunday's Slow Food potluck, I made one with roasted butternut squash, a vegetable I have aplenty.

At this time of year, use whatever's in cold storage or the freezer to dream up a strata based on this formula (or skip to the recipe). It's a great way to keep eating local whenever you're stuck here in the veggie doldrums of winter.

There are only three parts to a savory strata:
Part 1: The Bread
Some recipes say to cut off the crusts. If you want to get fancy (see Bonus, below) or are making a sweet strata for dessert, then by all means trim off the crusts. But I like the textural contrast of more and less chew--and not wasting bread. In fact, I collect crusts and loaf ends in my freezer just for the purposes of making a strata. I tear the bread, generally--unless I want more uniformity, and then I cut--before toasting until crisp. 8 to 10 slices nicely fills a 9-by-13-inch baking dish.

Part 2: The Custard
This is a no-fuss mixture of milk and eggs. I use a proportion of roughly 2 eggs to 1 cup of milk. To add richness, replace a portion of milk with half and half or heavy cream and include an extra egg yolk. Or, to lighten it up, substitute vegetable or chicken broth. Season each cup of milk with 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt, plus any other herbs or spices you like. If you want to check the flavorings, but are concerned about salmonella, mix up the milk with the seasonings and taste before you add the eggs. 2 1/2 cups of custard brings enough moisture to the standard baking dish and yields a crispy top once baked.

Part 3: The Flavorful Filling
This is where you get creative. Anything goes and in any quantity, leftovers included. The only guidelines are to use combinations that appeal to you, generally 2 to 3 ingredients, and make certain that they taste great on their own. Most ingredients need to be cooked in advance, especially any leafy greens, mushrooms or ground meats.

For my butternut squash strata, I roasted the squash in olive oil, salt and pepper and ground dried rosemary, and tasted it to be sure it was well seasoned. With cooked greens, such as spinach or kale, I like to add freshly grated nutmeg or red pepper flakes along with the salt. Go with your gut.

Finally, while strata is the ideal use for that hunk of dried-up cheese, know that cheese is optional.*
Anywhere from 1 to 3 cups of added vegetables and meats plus 1 to 3 cups of cheese produces a strata with interesting variety and flavors.

Bonus: Getting Fancy
I'm certain you've seen them on restaurant menus. So, how do you dress them up? It's easy. Cut the bread nice and even (without the crusts, see "bread" above), enrich the filling with half and half or cream and include out-of-the ordinary ingredients, such as wild mushrooms, crab, or leeks. Bake the strata in individual ramekins (reducing the baking time by 10 to 15 minutes) or use a round cutter to cut servings from a standard baking dish. The presentation is quite nice!

Here's a family supper or brunch strata recipe from the cookbook that was never written:
Recipe: Whole Wheat Strata with Ham, Corn, Scallions and Cheddar

*For a completely dairy-free bread pudding, try one of these panade recipes I published in Relish.

Recipe: Ham & Cheddar Whole Wheat Strata

Whole Wheat Strata with Ham, Corn, Scallions & Cheddar 
Makes 8 to 10 servings

8 ½-inch slices of crusty whole wheat country bread

2 1/2 cups whole or skim milk

4 large eggs

1 heaping tablespoon spicy brown mustard or Dijon

1 teaspoon salt

Pinch cayenne

4 to 6 ounces sliced ham or Canadian bacon, cut into roughly 2-inch squares

2 cups (1 10-ounce bag) frozen corn kernels

1 bunch scallions, chopped

3 cups grated sharp or extra-sharp cheddar cheese

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Tear or cut the bread into bite-sized pieces. Place them in a single layer on a large baking sheet and toast until crisp and beginning to brown, about 10 minutes.

2.  Whisk the milk, eggs, mustard, salt, and cayenne until smooth in a large measuring cup to make the custard.
3. Toss the ham, corn, scallions, and 2 cups of the cheese with the bread in a large mixing bowl until well distributed.

4. Butter or oil a 9-by-13-inch glass baking dish. Transfer the bread mixture into the baking dish and pour over the custard over it. Cover with plastic wrap and weight with a gallon-sized resealable plastic bag filled with rice or beans. Press down to submerge the bread. Let the strata soak for at least 30 minutes at room temperature or up to 2 days in the refrigerator.

 5. If the strata was chilled, let it stand at room temperature for 30 minutes before baking. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F and remove the weights and plastic wrap. Sprinkle on the remaining cheddar cheese. Bake until the strata is puffed, bubbly, and the top is well browned, 45 to 50 minutes. Cool on a rack for 10 minutes before serving.

Practice Makes Pasta (Near) Perfect

Do you expect to do everything right the first time?

So do I.

This past Monday morning, I was baking for a private dinner that evening. My plan was to make individual chocolate tarts for dessert and the dough (from a recipe I'd never tested, mistake #1) crumbled instead of rolling.

And then what happens when you don't deliver? 

In my case, I tend to sling insults at myself and feel like a failure.

I mean, it was only tart dough, but I was cooking for a business group, so it had some import. Plus, I'm supposed to be a professional.

As I made the tart dough again from a professional formula I know and trust, I realized that I haven't exactly had a lot of pastry practice of late. And that, I've come to realize is most of what it takes when it comes to baking and cooking--and just about everything else we do in this life.

I once heard a radio interview with Portland chef Naomi Pomeroy who said, essentially, that what separates professionals from home cooks is that they get a lot more opportunities to practice. Training and experience aside, it's true.

This is why I am dedicating 2012 to practicing all my important things, like writing, yoga, running, parenting and pasta.

Yes, pasta. Fresh, homemade pasta in all its wondrous varieties is something I'd like to be able to do without looking at a book for a recipe or formula. I long to become like that Italian homemaker who simply scoops some flour onto the counter, cracks in a few eggs and eases it all into a dough that she rolls into translucent sheets.

All it will take is doing it more. So that the next time I make butternut squash ravioli, like I did over the holidays, there will be more pleasure and less strain.

This video is a good way to learn the process of making pasta from scratch if you're feeling rusty.

So, what skills do you want to practice well in 2012?

Beef Tenderloin Substitutes

Want to enjoy a regal roast beef but spend a bit less?

photo by mila0506

Okay, there is no real substitute for the butter-knife tenderness of the most spendy cut of beef. It's making the rounds on a host of food blogs for the upcoming holiday.

In fact, I just got booked for a private dinner slated for January 2nd and I've been on the phone trying to track down a couple of grassfed tenderloins at the last minute.

But, did you know that among the pros--and I'm talking about meat cutters here--tenderloin is never a top pick? Most butchers I've spoken to think the tenderloin is overrated. Certainly, it is pricey, but that doesn't tend to impress them.

This slender cut is the single most tender muscle on a cow because it's a supportive, not an exercised muscle. But, it has a milder flavor than other cuts. Butchers think it's a wimpy cut without any character that makes beef great.

If you're looking at the new year with an eye on your budget like I am, tenderloin may be out of your range. But that does not mean that you can't serve a lovely and impressive beef supper over the New Year's weekend.

Here are some lesser known, more economical and supremely flavorful beef cuts to try: 

*Rib-eye roast: This premium cut is popularly known as prime rib and is butchers top pick as the king of beef cuts.

*Top sirloin roast: Sirloin usually ends up as steak, but a center cut chunk of sirloin makes a mighty fine roast.

*Top round roast: The cut typically used for deli roast beef makes a succulent roast beef supper--so long as it's cooked at a low temperature (325F or less) until medium-rare.

*Sirloin tip roast: The underdog of the beef world, this cut is also known as the "knuckle" since it lies between the sirloin and the round sections. 

Here's an Oregonian article I wrote about 3 of these cuts for an affordable feast. It includes 3 recipes for stuffed roast beef that have the added bonus of serving less meat per person.

It holds true no matter what meat cut you choose that cooking it to the proper temperature is critical to your eating enjoyment. Invest in a reliable instant-read thermometer before you buy any meat.

Happy New Year!

My 5 Best Make-Ahead Holiday Breakfasts

What to make to satisfy all of our Christmas morning cravings?

photo by jbcurio

Christmas Day brings a culinary paradox: we don't want to spend all day in the kitchen, but we want to eat well. That means making advance preparations especially for the first meal of the day: breakfast or brunch.

I'm more than happy with a pot of coffee for most of the morning (with a few sugar cookies popped into my mouth). I ply the girls with smoothies to sip as they open presents to eliminate risk of low blood sugar.

Come 10 a.m., everyone's ready for something more substantial, sweet or savory--or both.

Here are my top picks for a pre-made holiday breakfast. With only 2 days to go, I'm still deciding among them for myself:

1. Extra-Pumpkin Tea Cake Not too sweet and made with a hefty proportion of whole wheat flour, this is my go-to holiday snack. I already have some stashed in the freezer.
2. Orange Twists For something a little more indulgent, donut-like without any deep-frying. These simple pastries flavored with orange zest, juice and orange flower water rise overnight for a.m. baking.
3. Truffled Baked Eggs with Potatoes On the savory side, these baked eggs flavored with truffle oil are a great choice when company's coming.
4. Whole Wheat Sourdough Waffles Make this sourdough batter the night before for a near-instant breakfast. Take it to the sweet side with fruit preserves, poached fruit or maple syrup with yogurt or go savory by making it the "bread" for a great egg sandwich (see Bonus, below).
5. Cinnamon Streusel Sour Cream Coffee Cake A slice of nostalgia with an ideal streusel-to-cake ratio. A most welcome contribution to any holiday brunch.

Bonus:
One Good Egg Sandwich on Biscuits or Waffles It's may be an add-on to the list, but an egg sandwich is my favorite breakfast of all. I plan to bake a batch of biscuits to put in the freezer today, just in case the mood for a sausage, egg and cheddar biscuit sandwich hits.

Freezer Burn

Do you treat your freezer like a circular file? It's time to excavate.

photo by me, alexis

Whenever I return from vacation, I see my house anew. I notice the chipped door jams, the overstuffed drawers and the dust on the chandelier, and I get to work putting my house in order.

Last week, when we returned from 2+ weeks in the east, I couldn't help notice the sad state of my freezers. The top freezer on the upright fridge is stuffed to bursting with Grand Central Bakery bread. While we were away, it sprung open a crack and everything is now coated, cartoon-like, in frost.

We food preservers and locavores may be the most guilty of hoarding food. We spend our precious time putting by all of summer's good produce and then we let it sit in there for months and years. Most people I know haven't seen the bottom of their freezers since they bought them.

Even though I've made a concerted effort to eat from my frozen stores, I still have more food than I need in there.

Tell me, do you know what's in the depths of your freezer? If so, what are you saving it for?

Don't worry, it's not just you. It's one of those kitchen universals, like the resistance to unloading the dishwasher, the dull knives you planned to sharpen, the gross pot holders needing to be replaced.

I'm here to remind you that your freezer is not a safety deposit box. And, while it's true that nothing's going to spoil in the freezer (barring an extended power outage, and man, think of all the food that had to be tossed during the east coast's Halloween storm power outages), nothing's getting better, either.

(Here are the best freezer storage guidelines I've found.)

You only have 92 days until spring, when the new growing season begins. By planning meals from the freezer, we can all eat the food while it's best and reduce our food waste, which peaks at this time of year.

So here's the holiday challenge: for the next 5 days, paw through your freezer(s) before you hit the grocery store and build meals around what you find.

There's not much time, but I'm betting that there are a few "lost" items you might be pleased to discover. I "found" a pound of dry-packed scallops I was saving for a special occasion. They're now the feature of my holiday menu.

What's in your freezer? Eat it soon. You'll be glad you did.

A Tale of Two Ranches

A battle with the bottle.

The Platter, a photo by anotherfaceinthecrowd

Today, my daughter Molly talked me into buying a bottle of Hidden Valley Ranch dressing at the grocery store.

It was only recently that I learned about my kids' knowledge and love of RanchTM. When Cece requested it one day with her carrot sticks, I asked her, "Where did you have it?" "At school."

Of course! What daycare-going, preschool-aged child in America has not had ranch salad dressing with those faux baby carrots? They could probably become their own food group.

It was one of those moments when I realized my 3-year old's experiences are expanding beyond my reach. I resolved then and there to make those girls some homemade ranch. After all, I had all the ingredients I needed: mayonnaise, yogurt and the granulated garlic in long-term storage in the spice cabinet.

One night, when I was searching for a side to go with a baked potato supper, I mixed up some yogurt ranch for my little epicures to try--and as a way to get them to eat cauliflower and broccoli. They liked my ranch better than those crucifers.

At lunch today, after I shuddered reading the ingredient list on the Hidden Valley bottle, I conducted an informal poll. As they were speed-eating baby carrots dipped in RanchTM,I asked as casually as I could, "Which ranch do you like better? This one or the one I made the other day?"

Public school first grader Molly was unequivocal. She looked me straight in the eye and said, "This one." Her younger sister answered with her mouthful. "I liked yours better, Mommy."

My vote broke the tie.

Recipe: Yogurt Ranch Dressing and Dip